Martinique

What a difference a day makes. Blue skies … coffee on the patio … little black finches perched on the chair backs, begrudging every crumb of the baguette that Jocelin brought us this morning … and, if you weren’t careful … hopping onto the table to investigate your plate. Bright red hibiscus dancing in the breeze while TWO kinds of hummingbirds zoomed and hovered. An iridescent green one, and a tiny crested one with a natty hairdo https://en.martinique-tour.com/discover/fauna-and-flora/the-birds/ But the VIEW … straight downhill to the bay … turquoise water and scattering of boats. A magazine-worthy picture.

South .. past a lookout of Diamond Rock where a slave ship broke up with loss of life … mostly the Slavers running the ship. An inspiring monument of 15 figures marks the spot. A tree-lined stretch of road ran very close to a spectacular-looking beach. Emerging from the shady canopy we just gasped … pure white sand stretching left and right … hardly anybody around … and incredibly two palm trees dipping towards the water, creating a perfect frame of the waves and Diamond Rock. A convenient wooden pallet was a comfortable seat. Heaven.

Even more remarkable, a vessel waaay out on the horizon rounded a headland … “That can’t be … yes it IS … the Eye of the Wind”. Presumably with the torrential rain yesterday, she’d waited until today to replenish stores in Le Marin. The town is a comfortable sort of place, like a well worn slipper… not your glitzy, white-polyester, gleamingly-polished super-yacht kind of place. Of course there are masses of expensive yachts boasting liveried and perfectly bronzed crew meticulously coiling ropes – but Marin is an honest, sea-faring harbour.

A visit to Grand Anse just along the coast from us, is popular with sun-worshipers and snorkelers alike. While bodies roasted to a fine turn in the unrelenting heat, we joined a group of snorkelers around a rocky reef just off the beach. The water was surprisingly clear .. colourful reef fish – Wrass, Tangs and Pipefish swam unperturbed … sea fans, huge five-armed starfish in distinctive yellow and brown, plus reasonably preserved clumps of coral. A little further out was an enormous turtle grazing on algae … Glen said he looked like he’d been through the wars as his shell was damaged and worn. A sudden shower created pandemonium among the sun bathers as they grabbed their belongings and raced up the beach to huddle under cover – crowding out patrons, who until that point had been enjoying their beer and cocktails, unmolested.

As we approached home, Glen said “Look” … and there, standing patiently in the bus shelter, was the neighbourhood goat … tethered while it’s owner was off doing something. It’s common hereabouts to use goats – singly or in groups – as weed-eating machines. A far nicer alternative to noisy, exhaust-belching contraptions … and friendlier too.

As is typical in most warmer climates, one has to scrupulously clean up the kitchen after every food prep and cooking … otherwise nature’s garbage collectors (the ants) will take full advantage. Miss one cantaloupe seed, and minutes later you’ll see it moving, seemingly independently, as 30 or 40 tiny ants cart it away. No matter how careful you are, the ants are always foraging for a miniscule overlooked crumb which is carried aloft, triumphantly … or calling in reinforcements for larger objects like a dead bug. Clever things.

In the Air B&B description, we had use of a washing machine, but as none was immediately visible we inquired. After much gesticulating and dimly-remembered French 10, it turns out there is a communal washing machine just off the general-use BBQ area … but not the free, once-a-week wash, as was advertised … a coin-operated affair (4 euros). No problem. But now where to dry said clean, but decidedly wet clothes? No rack or line visible … no helpful instruction from owner. Hmm. It was only after hanging everything from coathangers on a convenient curtain rail (inside, away from bird feet and occasional droppings) that a chance wander around the building uncovered a washing line! Now wouldn’t that have been helpful to know? The owners were generous in some respects, however certain, basic omissions from this otherwise delightful apartment, were at odds with all the other places we have stayed. Having to request dish soap, additional garbage bags, a roll of toilet paper (almost begrudgingly given – and ONLY one … in this heat I’d have thought it paramount to remove garbage at least every couple of days). But that’s what makes traveling interesting … difference is the spice of life.